That many herbal cosmetics in the market are not entirely herbal is common knowledge. But even 'upmarket' products can be adulterated. The application by Shahnaz Husain (Shahnaz Ayurvedic Products, New Delhi) for renewal of the licence to sell ayurvedic products has been held up by the Drug Controller (DC), Delhi, since clarifications are pending with the Drug Controller-General of India (DCGI). The licence had expired in December 1995. According to documents available with Down To Earth, there are more than 40 chemicals used by Husain in her products. These include foaming agents. The Director-General, Anti-Evasion (central excise department) has charged the firm of manufacture cosmetics in the guise of ayurvedic products to evade higher duty.

The DCGI has asked the DC, Delhi, to provide clarifications on the following points regarding the firm's products: Are chemical ingredients being used as pharmaceutical aids, colours and fragrances? Should these be allowed in the manufacture of patent and proprietary Ayurvedic / Unani medicines? Have such non-medicinal pharmaceuticals been mentioned on the labels of products classified as Ayurvedic / Unani?

The DC, Delhi, found that Shahnaz Ayurvedic Products, Delhi, had neither declared such chemicals nor got them approved while applying for a manufacturing licence. While a show cause notice was also issued to the firm.