In 1997, the Texas-based company, RiceTec's patent number 5663484 had, , made 20 claims on three new Basmati rice lines that were drawn from basmati varieties grown traditionally in Pakistan. In the court case against the patent, 15 of them were dismissed. But these aren't the only cases being fought over basmati; the war has spilled out to countries like Spain, Turkey and UAE as well. In all, India is fighting 40 other cases to protect the name 'basmati' in 25 court jurisdictions across the world.

The RiceTec patent used a parameter called starch index, calling it a unique measurement of basmati's quality. The starch index is nothing but another way of stating the percentage of amylose and alkali spreading value - two tests of starch content that have been conducted in India for long. But a lack of scientific data on the various basmati lines, traditional or otherwise, prevents India from coming up with its own research and a more robust defence. Sources in Indian Council for Agricultural Research (ICAR) say: "We slept till the storm hit home. If we had collected enough scientific evidence we could have put up a defense against spurious measurements like this starch index." And some of the tall claims RiceTec has made, and other companies in the future are bound to make, too cannot be scrutinised for the lack of alternative data. Only now has the Hyderabad-based Directorate of Rice Research begun analysing the RiceTec varieties for what they claim to be their unique qualities. Sources in the ICAR say that initial tests have shown that some of these claims may be too tall to be true. India is only beginning to grasp the truth: there is nothing like informed activism.

Prior to 1995: No proactive measures taken to protect basmati

1995: Basmati Development Fund set up under the Union ministry for commerce

1996: Watchdog agency formed by union the ministry of commerce to track basmati patents and trademarks

1996: Basmati growing areas of India are mapped for the first time

1999: The geographical indication act comes into being, but the rules are still not in place to enforce it

2001: DNA markers created for traditional and hybrid varieties, but the government dithers over using it