We had set out early from Hornbill camp. After walking five hours, we touched the banks of the Noa-dihing near Firmbase camp: on the river's sandy bed was a tiger pugmark. Japung, a forest guard, quirky and irrepressible, exclaimed " Bhagwan ke moti jaisa ek bagh toh hai, Namdapha mein ' (There's just a solitary tiger in Namdapha